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lebanon

Lebanon This trip happened by accident. I had a free week before visiting North and South Cyprus in August 2019. So I ended up in Beirut, a half-hour flight from Larnaca, with a friend who had previously shared a house with a Lebanese man in Yerevan. All it took was a casual summer drink together to decide to book the flight. At the time of the story, there had not yet been an explosion at the capital’s port, while the coronavirus had yet to be discovered. Lebanon had a government, the country was already facing default, but the currency drama seemed under control. We visited the whole country, from north to south, from coast to hinterland: Beirut, Tyre, Sidon, Baalbek, Bcharre, Tripoli, Baatroun, Byblos. I never wrote down the ending of this trip, somewhat out of laziness, but I got to know the unparalleled and unexpected beauty of Lebanon in the most adorably rugged and carefree way possible, perhaps that is why I agree with those who still call it a paradise on earth.

The Valley of Khalil Gibran

Pity for the nation full of belief but empty of religion Pity the nation that wears clothes it has not woven, eats bread it has not reaped and drinks wine that has
August 8, 2019

On the vastness of the Baalbek Temple

1.30 p.m., Beeka Valley ‘And now…our 2017 Reserve du Couvent red!’. One after the other, we had tasted the signature bottles of the iconic Chateau Ksara: in addition to the red wine,
August 7, 2019

Heading south, to Tyre and Sidon

ore 12.30, Cafè Cortado – Gemmayzeh 12.30 p.m., Café Cortado – Gemmayzeh I was reading the pages of L’Orient-le Jour, convinced I was brushing up on my already largely forgettable French. I
August 6, 2019

Beirut across the Green Line

“Manouche?!” “How don’t you know it? It is a religion here in Lebanon.” That’s how the bartender exclaimed at Café Em Nazih within our Saifi hostel. “Manouche, and Fairouz in the morning”.
August 4, 2019

Dreaming Beirut

“By the way, my name is Hassan”. I wanted to land sitting by the window, as I hope to do every time I reach a new destination. So I had disturbed my
August 3, 2019
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