Sophisticated polemics in travel reportage since 2017
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egypt
I had dreamed of embarking on this journey since I was a child, electrocuted by the civilisation of the pharaohs,
the “morning and evening asters”. I remember that at eight years old, I had even assembled some dried papyrus
and made my first piece of paper, fantasising about the famous silt of the Nile valley.
Growing up, ten years after the Tahrir Square protests, I wanted to see what was left of that gigantic past,
down in the Levant, and what Egypt meant today. Landing in Luxor, I boarded a motorboat on the Nile, docking at Edfu, Esna,
Kom Ombo, File, Aswan, Abu Simbel, then with an internal flight I reached Cairo and Giza.
I have completed this travel account, perhaps because with the years a sort of demand for completeness took over,
or more because I felt the need to draw conclusions on the complexity, on the dark lights of a country
that knows how to intimidate in the present, and at the same time interdict, through the incomparable vestiges of the past.
3:30 a.m. The alarm goes off in Aswan. We’re all curled up, silent, puffy-eyed, biting croissants in the riverboat lobby. The Greeks are, as always, chatting away on the deck—their meeting point
It is a sultry, hot day, the south wind is not blowing, and so the dream of our excursion on a felucca around Elephantine Island also fades. We do it by motor boat, rather
It is 4am, we dock in Aswan, jolted awake by the roaring engine of our motorboat. Aswan the indolent, the ‘best city in Egypt’.. Omar Sharif called it, who knows what he
It is ten o’clock in the evening, we are waiting to tie up with the other motorboats and dock at Kom Ombo. A cloud of dark pollution prevents us from breathing, we
Every day five o’clock tea is served on the deck, here in the Nile motor ship. Greeks chat until evening time, Italians sunbathe in their bikini, even some Germans pop up, otherwise